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Release | nobu Kawashima

Going around Hokkaido (31) Toyoura to Yakumo: Towards Oka-no-Eki while visiting hidden places to get views of the ocean


Going around the coastline of Hokkaido in clockwise!

In this 31st article of the series, I will start from “Michi-no-Eki Toyoura” in Toyoura-Cho and drive to “Oka-no-Eki” in “Funka Bay Panorama Park” in Yakumo-Cho.

There are many hidden places to get amazing views when I drive the road away from the National Route. I will take a detour to Rebunge District in Toyoura-Cho, Shizukari District in Oshamanbe-Cho, etc., on the way to “Oka-no-Eki.” Oh, don’t forget to have the famous ekiben of Oshamanbe Station, “Kanimeshi Bento”! 


Table of Contents

- About the series: Going around Hokkaido
- About the route: Michi-no-Eki Toyoura in Toyoura-Cho to Oka-no-Eki in Yakumo-Cho
- Michi-no-Eki Toyoura to Kamuichashi Historical Park: A fantastic view appears after climbing up the steep stairs! 
- Kamuichashi Historical Park to Shizukari Beach: From the coastline with cliffs to singing sands
- Shizukari Beach to Kunnui Port: Enjoy the famous ekiben “Kanimeshi Bento” 
- Kunnui Port to Oka-no-Eki: A beautiful place to get the view of Funka Bay

* I used pictures taken on different days in this article. Therefore, the colors of the sky and weather look different. 


About the series: Going around Hokkaido

This is a part of the series of articles to introduce my journey to go around Hokkaido. I will introduce my relaxing trip about visiting cities and towns, enjoying beautiful views, having delicious foods, and encountering fascinating people.

Below are the basic rules about the project:
- Basically, drive only National Routes or Hokkaido Roads along coastlines.
- I can use municipal roads near central towns, promontories, etc. However, I try not to use community roads and private roads. 
- I only drive the mainland of Hokkaido. (I’m sorry to those live in islands!)
- I drive from the sunrise to the sunset to enjoy the views.
- I divide my journey into a few times according to the coverage schedule. 


About the route: Michi-no-Eki Toyoura in Toyoura-Cho to Oka-no-Eki in Yakumo-Cho

今回のルートはこちら(Google My Maps)▲The route of this article (Google My Maps) 

Route: Michi-no-Eki Toyoura in Toyoura-Cho to Oka-no-Eki in Yakumo-Cho
Mileage: Approx. 84 kilometers
The time required: Approx. 1 hour 50 mins (except breaks, time to stop at sightseeing spots, and the detour)

Check the detailed map from the link below! 
Going around Hokkaido (25) -
Going around Hokkaido (19) -
Going around Hokkaido (11) -
Going around Hokkaido (1) -

You can find the previous article of the series here:
Going around Hokkaido (30) Muroran to Toyoura: drive along Funka Bay with the view of Mt. Usu

ぐるり北海道一周、ここまで通りました!(Google My Maps)▲Going around Hokkaido has come this much! (Google My Maps) 


Michi-no-Eki Toyoura to Kamuichashi Historical Park: A fantastic view appears after climbing up the steep stairs! 

Michi-no-Eki Toyoura to Kamuichashi Historical Park
Mileage: Approx. 13 kilometers
The time required: Approx. 20 mins

I started from “Michi-no-Eki Toyoura” in Toyoura-Cho. 
This Michi-no-Eki is on the way to Hakodate City from Muroran and Hakodate City from Sapporo City via Nakayama Pass. It’s a very convenient place to take a break. 


I left the Michi-no-Eki and drove the National Route no. 37 for a while towards Oshamanbe-Cho.

海辺を離れて山間を進むイメージ▲I got away from the coastline and kept driving in the forests. 

I took a left turn before the Toyoura Interchange for the expressway. I am going to get away from the National Route and take a detour along the coastline. 

After driving in the woods for a few minutes, houses started to appear, and I arrived at the beach after passing the village. 

I drove through the tunnel to go under the cliff in the front as I see the ocean on the left. The ocean appeared again. But it looks like it’s also a camping field. Let me stop by a little. 

道路右側に駐車場があったので停めてふらりと散策▲I found parking on the right side of the road, so I parked the car to take a walk. 

It was “Kamuichashi Historical Park” and “Okishi Seaside Camping Field” in the Rebunge District of Toyoura-Cho. 

訪れたのは真夏。キャンプを楽しんでいる方々が何組もいました▲I visited here in the mid-summer. Many people were enjoying camping! 

気持ちよさそう~!▲It looks amazing! 

I almost got seduced by the smell of BBQ from the camping site but kept walking the beach. I was only looking at the ocean for a while, but when I looked at the mountainside, I noticed long steps. 

135段!「上まで行くのどうしよう…」と一瞬躊躇しました▲135 steps! I thought for a while if I should go up or not. 

After going up the steps, I found a beautiful park on the hill! “Kamuichashi Historical Park” is this park on the hill.

眺め爽快!先ほど通ってきた断崖を貫くトンネルはちょうどこの真下あたりを通っています▲The view was fascinating! The tunnel I passed that go through the cliff goes right under the park. 

“Kamuichashi” means “god’s fort” in the Ainu language. It’s a sacred place worshipped by Ainu people. 

園内には木道があり、散策できます▲There is a wooden path in the park, and you can walk along. 

木道の先から崖下の海がチラリ。けっこう高さがあり足がすくみます▲I could see the ocean under the cliff from the wooden path. It was quite high, and I felt a little scared. 

I could get a fantastic view of the ocean from the cliff that sticks out to the sea! I felt a sacred atmosphere as trees surrounded it. I thought it’s a precious spiritual place that feels like I visited a hidden spot.


Kamuichashi Historical Park to Shizukari Beach: From the coastline with cliffs to singing sands

Kamuichashi Historical Park to Shizukari Beach
Mileage: Approx. 22 kilometers
The time required: Approx. 35 mins

I feel like my body and mind got purified and left the place. However, I am up on the cliff. I need to go down the long stairs down to go. 

下りる時は軽く恐怖…!でも、時折立ち止まり見渡す眺めがよくて癒されます▲The steps were quite steep and felt a little scary! Although the landscape I got to view once in a while I stopped was terrific and I felt lovely. 

I could go down all the stairs by using handrails. I took off after recovering my breath. I parked a car for a short break soon after. A fantastic scenery appeared after passing the first tunnel. 

文学碑公園。斉藤茂吉や伊藤整、与謝野鉄寛・晶子など、海岸の美しさを称賛した文人や歌人の石碑がある公園です▲Bungakuhi Park. The park has stone monuments of writers such as Mokichi Saito, Sei Ito, Akiko and Yosano Tekkan, etc., who praised the beauty of this beach. 

I parked the car at Bungakuhi Park and went out of the car. I could hear the sound of waves and feel an ocean smell. This landscape of the ocean in mid-summer makes me feel at ease. 

I was surprised to see the wild ocean scenery soon after! The road got narrow suddenly, and I kept driving the curvy road along the cliffs that stick out to the sea. 

よくここに道路を造ったものだと驚くくらい険しい地形▲I was amazed at how people made a road in such a steep landscape. 

左手を見ると岩礁が点在▲There were many reefs on the left. 

道路脇には室蘭本線の旧線跡。線路跡の一部が道路に転用されています▲I found an old railroad of Muroran Honsen Line by the road. Part of the former railroad has been turned into roads. 

After I pass the narrow and steep road, I entered the village of Rebunka District. Koboro Beach, which is known as an unexplored region, will be beyond this point. However, there is no road along the coastline until Oshamanbe-Cho, so I will drive inland with the National Route no. 37.  

山間を進み、峠を越えます▲I kept driving between mountains and drove through the mountain pass. 

A large plain that continues to the coast appeared in the front after a long downhill. I took a left turn in the middle of the hill and got away from the national route. I went down all at once and arrived at Shizukari District. 

I should turn right after driving the coastline. Let’s try to go as far as I can in the left direction. 

終着点は静狩漁港。この先から礼文華地区までが海沿いに道路がありません▲There was Shizukari Port at the end. There will be no roads along the coastline beyond this point to Rebunka District. 

I checked there was a dead end, so I took a U-turn. 
My next destination is Shizukari Beach, which is beyond JR Shizukari Station. It’s also called a beach with singing sands. 

JR静狩駅。映画にでも出てきそうなレトロな佇まいがステキ!▲JR Shizukari Station. I really like the nostalgic atmosphere of this building. It feels as if it came out of a movie! 

目印はこの木製の看板だけ。googleマップにも載っていませんでした(2019年9月現在)▲This wooden sign is the only sign. I could not find this beach on Google Maps. (As of September 2019) 

I parked the car and walked to the beach. 

すっごくキレイ~!遠くに小幌海岸へと続く海岸線が連なります▲The beach was very beautiful! The coastline continues to Kohoro Beach. 

Singing sand is a kind of sand that makes noise when grains of quartz hit each other. I could not hear the sound but still felt eased by sounds of waves and a nice sea breeze. 


I heard that a lot of marine debris gets washed up on this beach because of the topography and tide. Oshamanbe-Cho spends so much budget to clean the wastes on the beach. Thanks to them, we can enjoy this beautiful view of the beach.


Shizukari Beach to Kunnui Port: Enjoy the famous ekiben “Kanimeshi Bento” 

Shizukari Beach to Kunnui Port
Mileage: Approx. 22 kilometers
The time required: Approx. 25 mins

I left Shizukari Beach and merged to the National Route. I kept driving straight in the middle of the field and arrived at the center of Oshamanbe-Cho. 

Oshamanbe is famous for Kanimeshi! (rice with crabs) Kanaya’s Kanimeshi is so famous that many people imagine it with Oshamanbe. 

長万部駅前にあるかなや本店。直売所横に「自由席」という列車内を模した飲食スペースもあります▲Kanaya’s flagship store is in front of Oshamanbe Station. There is a small eating area next to the shop (on the right in this picture) called “unreserved seat,” as the shop is next to the station. 

ランチにかにめしをゲット!▲I got Kanimeshi Bento for my lunch! 

You may also find this article interesting: 
“Kanimeshi Bento” is the most popular ekiben from Oshamanbe

Although I am not on a train journey, I guess ekiben is also great for a road trip. Of course, I can’t enjoy it with the view of trains, but I could feel I am traveling when I have it at a place with beautiful views or parks. 

I drove for about 10 mins to Kunnui Port. 

ワイングラスのような形をした人口島にある漁港で、陸地からは橋を渡って行きます▲The port is attached to an artificial island that looks like a wine glass. You can visit there from the land by crossing the bridge. 

橋の上からの眺めも良好!▲The view from the bridge was also nice! 

防波堤の上から眺めると、海から陸地を遠望しているような不思議な感覚です▲When I looked down from the breakwater, I felt a little awkward because I felt like I was looking at the land from the sea.

Many people were enjoying fishing at the port. I thought it would be nice to have my bento box while enjoying the view. However, it was a little windy, and seagulls and crows were watching my foods. 
I wasn’t thinking enough. I went back to my car and enjoyed the bento box. 


Kunnui Port to Oka-no-Eki: A beautiful place to get the view of Funka Bay

Kunnui Port to Oka-no-Eki
Mileage: Approx. 27 kilometers
The time required: Approx. 30 mins

I will almost arrive at the final destination of the day, Oka-no-Eki in Yakumo-Cho. 

平坦な区間が続く国道5号線をひたすら進みます▲I kept driving the flat road of National Route no. 5. 

As I get near the center of Yakumo-Cho, the road became two lanes on one side. Many shopping facilities started to appear. 

The road got one lane on one side again, and I found the sign of “Funka Bay Panorama Park” soon after. I took a right turn here. 

両脇の白樺並木が美しい坂道を進みます▲I drove a beautiful hill with birch trees on both sides of the road. 

背後を見ると、道路の先にチラリと海が見えました▲I noticed I could see the ocean at the back. 

Funka Bay Panorama Park is an enormous facility that is located on the hill to look down the sea. 

八雲町や近隣市町の特産品を販売している「丘の駅」▲Oka-no-Eki sells local specialties of Yakumo-Cho and neighboring towns and cities. 

Funka Bay Panorama Park has various facilities such as Oka-no-Eki that I will visit today, cafe and restaurant, a camping field, park golf field, etc. You can visit here either from the general road and Yakumo Service Area of the expressway, which makes it a perfect place to take a break while driving the southern Hokkaido area.

丘の上から眺める噴火湾。最高のロケーションです▲The view of Funka Bay from the hill. It’s an amazing place to get a view of this beautiful landscape. 

I found many local products that are perfect for souvenirs! 

八雲町は酪農が盛ん。地元の牛乳やヨーグルトドリンク、プリンなど乳製品が多々あります▲One of the largest industries in Yakumo-Cho is dairy farming. Oka-no-Eki offers various dairy products such as locally sourced milk, yogurt drinks, and puddings, etc.

八雲町をはじめ近隣市町のさまざまなチーズがずらり!▲There is also different cheese made in Yakumo-Cho and other neighborhood cities/towns! 

海の幸も豊富。ホタテの燻製などお酒が欲しくなる品々も▲There are many seafood products, too. Some products would match great with alcohols such as smoked scallops, etc.

I bought two things today. 

1品目は「二海カレーパン」▲The first one is “Nikai Curry-Pan” (Curry bun from two seas). 

Yakumo-Cho faces two seas: the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Japan. 
This curry bun uses the local curry “Nikai Curry,” which is made with locally sourced ingredients in Yakumo-Cho, which is located in between two seas. 

The bun contains white-colored curry made with milk, as Yakumo-Cho is a dairy farming industry town. They put scallops, which is their local specialty, in the curry. 

断面がちょっと美しくないのですが…割ってみたらこんなかんじ▲It doesn’t look pretty but looks like this when I cut it into half. 

It was quite spicy and had a strong flavor. I felt delighted! 

2品目は「塩キャラメルプリン」。食後のデザートは外せません!▲The second one is “Salty Caramel Pudding.” I never miss the dessert after a meal!  

The pudding was incredibly creamy but was not heavy at all. The texture was great, too. The sweet caramel sauce and the light texture of the pudding match really well. 

I ate so much while enjoying beautiful views this time. I had the dessert, so I’d like to end this article today. 

I will leave Oka-no-Eki and drive to “Michi-no-Eki Shikabe Kanketsusen Park” in Shikabe-Cho in the next article. 
  • Going around Hokkaido (31) Toyoura to Yakumo: Towards Oka-no-Eki while visiting hidden places to get views of the ocean