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Going around Hokkaido (4) Obira to Teshio: Continue driving the Ororon Line towards Kaisen-Don and onsen




This is the fourth article of the series to drive along the coastline of Hokkaido.


This time, I left “Michi No Eki Obira Nishin Banya” in Obira-Cho and drove the Ororon Line towards the north.

By passing Tomamae-Cho, Haboro-Cho, Shosanbetsu Village, Enbetsu-Cho and drove to “Teshio Onsen Yubae,” an onsen facility in Teshio-Cho. 

I also stopped by a hidden gem of delicious sashimi rice bowl in Haboro-Cho on the way! 

 

Table of Contents

- About the series: Going around Hokkaido
- About the route: From Michi No Eki Obira Nishin Banya in Obira-Cho to Teshio Onsen Yubae in Teshio-Cho
- Michi No Eki Obira Nishin Banya in Obira-Cho to Hama No Kaachan Shokudo in Haboro-Cho: Be careful about bears! 
- A huge Kaisen-Don! Thank you, mother of the sea! 
- Hama No Kaachan Shokudo in Haboro-Cho to Teshio Onsen Yubae in Teshio-Cho: I could see Rishiri Fuji over the ocean! 
- The smell of onsen was surprising: a hot spring good for the skin but for the experienced 


 
ウーロン茶色をした温泉▲The hot spring water’s color was like oolong tea. 

 

About the series: Going around Hokkaido

This is a part of the series of articles to introduce my journey to go around Hokkaido. I will introduce my relaxing trip about visiting cities and towns, enjoying beautiful views, having delicious foods, and encountering to fascinating people.

Below are the basic rules about the project:

- Basically, drive only National Routes or Hokkaido Roads along coastlines.
- I can use municipal roads near central towns, promontories, etc. However, I try not to use community roads and private roads. 
- I only drive the mainland of Hokkaido. (I’m sorry to those live in islands!)
- I drive from the sunrise to the sunset to enjoy the views.
- I divide my journey into a few times according to the coverage schedule.


 

About the route: From Michi No Eki Obira Nishin Banya in Obira-Cho to Teshio Onsen Yubae in Teshio-Cho


 
今回のルートはこちら(Google My Maps)▲The route of this article (Google My Maps) 


Michi No Eki Obira Nishin Banya to Teshio Onsen Yubae
Mileage: Approx. 91 kilometers
The time required: Approx. 2 hours 10 mins (except breaks and time to stop at sightseeing spots)


Check the detailed map from the link below! 
Going around Hokkaido

You can find the previous article of the series here: 
Going around Hokkaido (3) Mashike to Kodaira: Head towards the north as I touch the history by visiting sites

 

Michi No Eki Obira Nishin Banya in Obira-Cho to Hama No Kaachan Shokudo in Haboro-Cho: Be careful about bears! 

Michi No Eki Obira Nishin Banya to Hama No Kaachan Shokudo
Mileage: Approx. 28 kilometers
The time required: Approx. 35 mins


You can find an Important Cultural Property “Former Hanada Family’s Cottage,” etc., at “Michi No Eki Obira Nishin Banya” in Obira-Cho which I introduced in the previous article. 

 
歴史風情を感じられる旧花田家番屋(写真提供:小平町教育委員会)▲Former Hanada Family’s Cottage has a historical taste. (The picture is provided by Obira-Cho Board of Education) 


I left the place after I took plenty of time to look around the facility! Then headed north on the National Route no. 232 along the Sea of Japan, which is commonly called Ororon Line. 

Unfortunately, I did not get any sun on the day I visited. It seemed like the rain from the morning won’t stop. I kept driving as I moved windshield wipers and made splashes. 

 



When I entered Tomamae-Cho from Obira-Cho, I noticed many windmills on top of the hill on the left. 

Areas along the Sea of Japan in Hokkaido is one of the windiest places in Japan, so I saw lots of windmills in the journey. Tomamae-Cho is no exception. There are many windmills, and the landscape with many windmills along the National Route is somewhat stunning.

The road continued to the top of the hill from the coastline and reached to the center of Tomamae-Cho after a while. 

When I passed the town hall along the National Route, I noticed a huge bear on the left! 

 
「とままえ だ ベアー」というフレーズとともに、巨大なヒグマのモニュメントが役場前に設置されています▲A massive bear-shaped monument is in front of the town hall with the phrase “Tomamae Da Bear.” 

Tomamae-Cho is famous for brown bears. 

This is due to the Sankebetsu brown bear incident occurred in December 1915. 

It was a terrible incident; a bear attacked 10 settlers. I can’t even speak about the details of the incident. 

They took advantage of the negative history and used brown bears to promote the area. 

Since the bear stands along the National Route, it might work well to wake you up! What? Won’t it surprise you at all? Well, you should try it! 



After I said goodbye to the bear, I arrived at Haboro-Cho after a while. I turned left in the city of Haboro-Cho and headed to Haboro Ferry Terminal by the ocean. 

 

A huge Kaisen-Don! Thank you, mother of the sea!

I arrived at Haboro Ferry Terminal. 

 



Ferries to isolated islands Teuri Island and Yagishiri Island leave from this ferry terminal. All the ferries were canceled on the day I visited because of the terrible weather.

 
▲The ferry terminal was very quiet because all the ferries were canceled. 


However, it doesn’t affect my journey. I stopped by the port not to ride on a ferry but to have a Kaisen-Don (sashimi rice bowl) with a great deal for the money.

The place located in the ferry terminal is called “Hama No Kaachan Shokudo,” which is run directly by a fishermen’s cooperative.

 
甘エビ丼や生ウニ丼も惹かれますが、今回は「前浜海鮮丼」をオーダー▲I got tempted to the northern shrimp rice bowl and sea urchin rice bowl but ordered “Maehama Kaisen-Don” this time. 

 
「お待たせしました!」と料理を差し出す“浜のかあちゃん”▲“Here you go!” Hama No Kaachan (mother of the sea) offered me the dish. 


 nobu Kawashima
  “Mother, I ordered Kaisen-Don. Does it come with all these dishes?” 

 Hama No Kaachan
  “I want people to have as many local specialties as they can. This is a normal size for us.” 

 
前浜海鮮丼は、ネタが山盛りの海鮮丼のほか、汁ものや小鉢なども含め、ここに写っているものぜーんぶ含めて2000円(2018年7月現在)▲Maehama Kaisen-Don comes with a huge sashimi rice bowl with countless sashimi pieces, soup, side dishes, and 2,000 yen including everything. (As of July 2018)


I was surprised to see such a volume of foods! 

It included 10 pieces of northern shrimp caught in Haboro and 5 pieces of boiled octopus. It also had plenty of sea urchin and ikura. She said that they use two pieces of scallops. 

 



The northern shrimp miso soup seemed like twice or three times bigger than the bowl we usually use at home. 
Furthermore, it came with two pieces of boiled whelks, scallop mantle salad, and boiled squid. 

The content of soup and side dishes changes every day, but she told me that the amount of food is about the same. 

 



And almost all ingredients are caught in Haboro as the fishermen’s cooperative owns the restaurant. The dish was, of course, fresh and delicious. Allow me to correct myself. It was unbelievably delicious! 

I think this is an excellent deal for the price! 

I never knew that there was a fantastic Kaisen-Don restaurant in the ferry terminal. 

I would say this is a hidden gem. I thanked the mother’s kindness. Thanks for the meal! 

○Check out this article by Hokkaido Likers for details
“Hama No Kaachan Shokudo” owned directly by the fishing cooperative in Haboro provides great value for the price!

 

Hama No Kaachan Shokudo in Haboro-Cho to Teshio Onsen Yubae in Teshio-Cho: I could see Rishiri Fuji over the ocean! 

Hama No Kaachan Shokudo to Teshio Onsen Yubae
Mileage: Approx. 63 kilometers
The time required: Approx. 1 hour 35 mins


My stomach got really full by having a lot of local seafood and filled with happiness. I continued driving as tried to keep myself awake after the meal. 

I passed by a huge bird-shaped monument and headed to Shosanbetsu Village from Haboro-Cho. 

 
ペンギン!?いえいえ、天売島に生息するウミガラス(オロロン鳥)オロロン鳥をモチーフにした像です▲Is it a penguin? No, it’s a common murre (Ororon Bird) habits around Teuri Island. 


As I passed the town of Shosanbetsu Village, I noticed an old ruin of a bridge on the right. 

 
1987(昭和62)年に廃止された旧国鉄羽幌線の橋梁跡▲The ruin of a bridge of former National Railway Haboro Line which ended its operation in 1987. 


There are many train ruins such as former Haboro Line along Ororon Line. This is one of the most noticeable ruins from roads. 

This might catch attention for people who are interested in historical ruins such as railroad ruins. However, please note that it’s not a tourist destination and there is no parking for visitors. 


The most famous tourist destination in Shosanbetsu Village must be “Shosanbetsu Astronomical Observatory.” 

I couldn't stop by this time because I had other plans, but please stop by if you have some time! It’s very close to the bridge ruin. 


I reached to Enbetsu-Cho after passing Shosanbetsu Village. 

National Route no. 232 which goes to Wakkanai turns right at the crossroad in the town of Enbetsu-Cho. If you want to enjoy driving along the coastline, turn left at the crossroad towards Enbetsu Port. 

Turn right at Enbetsu Port and keep driving straight for a while. 

You can get a fantastic view after passing towns of Enbetsu-Cho and the port. 

 
周囲は気持ちいいくらいだだっ広い風景!雨で天気悪かったのに気分爽快!▲There was nothing along the road! I got excited even the weather was not that good with rains! 


This route is a perfect place for a road trip when it’s sunny. 

Look at this picture! 

 
海の向こうには利尻島の利尻富士(利尻山)も見えます!(写真提供:天塩町在住Sさん)▲You can also see Rishiri Fuji (Mt. Rishiri) in Rishiri Island over the ocean! (The picture is provided by Mr. S who lives in Teshio-Cho)


The landscape like this continues for over 10 kilometers from Enbetsu-Cho to Teshio-Cho. 

 
振り返ると、今まで通ってきた海岸線がはるか遠くに見えます(写真提供:天塩町在住Sさん)▲When I turned back, I could see the coastline I passed far away. (The picture is provided by Mr. S who lives in Teshio-Cho)


There are no buildings nor telegraph poles. There was nothing to cover the landscape. Of course, there are no traffic lights as well. 

 
時折、低速の農業用車両も通っているので注意(写真提供:天塩町在住Sさん)▲Be careful of slow-speed agricultural vehicles that pass by sometimes. (The picture is provided by Mr. S who lives in Teshio-Cho)


The paved road along the coastline ends after a while from the point you enter Teshio-Cho. Turn right there and turn left after a while to merge National Route no. 232. 

Turn left again when you enter the town of Teshio-Cho and leave the national route to head to Teshio Port. 

The goal of today “Teshio Onsen Yubae” is almost there if you see Kagaminuma Kaihin Park on the right. 

 
キャンプ場がある鏡沼海浜公園。高台の上にある建物がてしお温泉夕映です▲Kagaminuma Kaihin Park is also a camping site. The building on top of the hill is Teshio Onsen Yubae. 

 

The smell of onsen was surprising: a hot spring good for the skin but for the experienced

Let’s heal the tired body from the long journey with hot springs! 

 



The onsen component of this hot spring is unique. Surprisingly, it has a smell of ammonia. 

I was surprised at first but got used to soon and felt kind of relaxing from the smell. The brownish water covered my body gently. 

 
塩分を多く含む泉質。湯の湧出口近くには白っぽい温泉成分がびっしりこびりついていました▲The component contains a lot of salt. I noticed many pieces of whiteish onsen component stuck around the mouth of the spring. 


My skin was very smooth after I got out of the bath. Of course, my body got stiff from the long hour drive was completely healed. 

 
天気がよい日の夕方は浴場から日本海に沈む夕陽を眺められますよ!(写真提供:てしお温泉夕映)▲You can watch the sun going down to the Sea of Japan on a sunny day! (The picture is provided by Teshio Onsen Yubae) 


Teshio Onsen Yubae is an onsen facility which accepts day visitors. 
You can stay here or visit here as a day visitor and camp at Kagaminuma Kaihin Park. 

Rest well for the journey on the next day. 

This is the end of this article. 

I will leave Teshio Onsen Yubae and head to the northernmost city in Japan, Wakkanai City in the next article. I will reach “Cape Nosshapu” in Wakkanai City. 
  • Going around Hokkaido (4) Obira to Teshio: Continue driving the Ororon Line towards Kaisen-Don and onsen
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